Ramen and Red Leaves

Tis fall and the leaves are changing from green to orange to red, and it is truly spectacular. The mountains are covered with trees so densely packed, that it has, up until now, appeared they are covered in moss. But finally individual trees can be differentiated from the rest according to their color change, even though it may be a small difference in tint from the next. And in Japan, where most everyone takes keen notice of the season changes and the subsequent changes in life due to these weather shifts (children now wear their heavy uniforms, the Mikan oranges are now orange and not green, many of the rice fields are now cabbage fields and it is now cool enough to play jump rope during recess), that the red Momiji (maple) leaves are a tourist attraction. Possibly the best view of them is in Kyoto, and so that is where Sara and I headed last weekend.

She arrived on a Wednesday and on Thursday came to Junior High with me to meet my students and hand deliver a video letter that her sixth graders made for their pen-pals (my students). Sara, Sakamoto Sensei (the English teacher I work with) and I have begun a pen-pal correspondence between our students, which has so far been really great on both ends, so this visit was also another piece of this project (I will write more about this in detail on another post). Needless to say, my kids were so happy to see Sara, another interesting gaijin and a link to their new American friends in the flesh. It was great.

In order to make the most of her short visit, we headed up to Kyoto on Friday so that we could spend two nights there. I have heard from so many people that Kyoto is packed with sights, temples, parks, rock gardens, so much so that two days is far insufficient. However, two days is better than one. Upon arrival in Kyoto's ultramodern train station, I immediately could understand why people have said that this city is unique in its juxtaposition of old and new. A futuristic travelers hub in a former capital city known for its many temples and as one of the last places where one can still spot a real Geisha.

We walked to our hostel, dropped off our things and headed towards Ramen. Everyone, if you are ever in Kyoto, hit up the hole-in-the-wall Ramen shop known as Daichi Ramen. It is oily and wonderful, really hits the spot. Then it was off towards Kodaiji Temple for the Fall evening light up. Unfortunately my camera broke at about this point, and Sara forgot hers on the plane, so I have no pics for you, but trust me, it was a sight. First of all, though it was dark as midnight at around 7:30 and quite cold as well, there were as many people out and about, families and the elderly included, as you would imagine there to be at 12noon. This was the tourist attraction. The packed bus dropped us off on a fairly busy street, much like in any Japanese city, but walking up the block a ways, we came to a large T intersection, the dead end of which was the huge orange entryway to the shrine. We both chuckled at the food stands that lay within the entryway on the grounds of the shrine, selling hotdogs on a stick and sweet potato fries. And combined with the purification water troughs and hundreds of lanterns lining the path and the buildings in the shrine complex, the words "Japanese style carnival" inevitably came to mind.

The night walk was calming after the day of train transfers and slow buses, and we eventually began following the crowd up some stairs and into another temple complex. This one was complete with an outside tea and mochi "cafe" where you had the choice of viewing an enormous Buddha statue or overlook the whole of Kyoto, all the while surrounded my strikingly red leaves. After some mochi on a stick and some green tea we wandered into another area where crowds were gathered to buy tickets to something. Not understanding the words being spoken or the kanji on the signs we decided that it must be worth the 600 yen to see whatever it was, if so many people were bussling and cramming through such a narrow walk way to get tickets. When in Japan... Turns out we made the right move, for the tickets allowed us entry into a magnificent garden full of Momiji and bamboo groves, lit from the bottom so as to glow in the dark night. The pond acted as a mirror so that it was hard to tell the real trees from their reflections and the walkway winding through the grove of giant bamboo Sara and I both agreed was the ideal spot to be married. And we admired in awe the appreciation that everyone had for this seasonal work of nature. People from all over Japan and gather in Kyoto this time of year to look at the trees. There are no special effects, or famous celebrities involved, no promises of thrills or spine-tingling adventure, just the trees in all their glory. And the kids seemed to love it too.

On Saturday after some much needed sleep for jet-lagged sister, we got up and rented bikes for another day on the town. We met up with some other English teachers and headed to the national treasure Sanju-Sangen-do, a long wooden temple which houses 1,001 statues of the Buddhist deity Juichimen-senju-sengen Kanzoen, or more easily remembered as "Kannon." Along with these 1,001 statues, impeccably lined-up in rows, are 28 Guardian Deities of Kannon. My favorite of these was the deity who at one point ate children, but was then shown the err of its ways and now helps to assure a healthy childbirth. Room and guidance for transformation, for growth, ability to become a benefit and resource to society. An admiral lesson from the religion. Maybe Schwarzenegger could learn a thing or two.

After wandering slowly past the 1,001 statues, we ventured on to Kiyo Mizudera, one of the most popular sights in Kyoto, and on this Autumn Saturday, the crowds packed into the narrow streets leading up to the temple were good evidence of this. Unfortunately, Sara and I decided to bring our bikes to the top of the hill where Kiyo Mizudera sits, and were thus bumping into people with our wheels left and right. Luckily the crowds here were tame. Upon reaching the temple, I was
astounded at the spectacular views of the city and the grounds of the temple. Red leaves everywhere. And did I mention the beautiful weather.

It is a temple yes, a rather grand wooden building actually, but there is also the ancient, temple type carnival thing going on too. Interactive it is. There is the metal bar that you must try and life by yourself (near impossible), the love rock (where you must close your eyes and walk about 18 meters in a straight line from one rock to another for good luck in love) and the spot where you can drink from the life extending water, which is available when reaching a cup out into a narrow waterfall( a can't miss). It was a damn fun time. The day ended with some shopping, including a haircut for Sara at a salon, where she was treated like a queen for 2500 yen ($25). Yes they love the mullet, but they surely know how to serve it up.

Sara and I finished off our trip to Kyoto, before heading back to Wakayama, the way we had begun it, with huge bowls of Ramen.



(Pics, t-b: Kiyomizudera; Kiyomizudera: the view from the previous pic; Me and Big Sister--All photos courtesy of Mercedes. Arigato.)

(Due to my laziness, this post is not at all current...the leaves are no longer red, rather the trees stnad bare and it is snowing.)