There is/was a rumored annual Halloween Train Party. The loop line train in Osaka which, fittingly so, loops around the perimeter of the city with stops every 5-10 minutes and serves as an alternative to the subway system which runs throughout the city, was apparently the site of this party. According to bigdaikon.com, an unofficial JET website/discussion board, train officials, with little power to stop this October (gaijin) tradition, and in an effort I assume to keep things under control, put up with the celebration for one loop and limit the costumed and drinking, to the last two cars of the train. Some argue it began in Tokyo and in true city-rivalry fashion, others respond that Osaka is the tradition's birthplace. Upon further investigation it was gathered that the party would begin (at the commencement of the next measure ;)) at 9pm from Shin-Osaka station and would loop once. With this information, we headed forth...
Osaka is about a 2-3 hour train ride from Gobo, not a terribly long distance, but not a trip I make every weekend. As a result, trips to Osaka become planned so that shopping, eating and some sightseeing can be squeezed in. So, once we arrived and shopped a bit (the Mac store was bumpin' and I`m diggin' the new ipod) ate a little more, checked into our Japanese-style hostel and costumed-up, we were too late to get to Shin-Osaka by nine o'clock, departure time. Instead we headed to Tennoji, a major stop in Osaka, about half way through the loop. We figured it would take about 30mins. for the train to reach us, in the meantime we could grab some drinks at a combini (Japan's much better version of our convenient store) and not have to rush. Speaking to a couple of friends that were able to make it to the point of departure, we knew that the rumor had spread to some extent and that the train was a go...the size of the event however was a mystery.
There are a few loopline trains that are running at all times (of train operation), in both directions, coming and going every 15 mins. or so. This is great for the commuter, but tricky for the Halloween celebrant trying to catch a moving party that could or could not be arriving on platform 11,12, 13, or 14 some time around 9:30. Luckily the platforms the loopline trains stop at are neighboring, allowing us to position ourselves on one while watching the other. We figured each train allows about 5 mins. for boarding and exiting, allowing us ample time to run up the stairs or escalator cross over to the next platform, run down the stairs or escalator and board the party train. Our plan to receive a phone call from a friend already on the train to notify us of its approaching failed, so we just waited.
To recap most simply: we want to get on the party train and we don't know when it is coming. The anxiety builds.
The 9:25 train passed and two 9:39 trains passed as we stood waiting for some sign that this or that train was the one, and prepared to run and catch it had Rock, Paper, Scissors led us to the wrong platform. Balloons, screaming, costumes, anything. Our efforts however were comforted when we were joined by some fellow Party Train hopefuls, a boy/girl, mummy and a man with wounds.
It wasn't long after we had figured that we missed the train that handfulls of JR Train security officers entered our platform and began guarding the escalator and lining the edge of the platform. Well I'll be, if this didn't seem like as good a sign as any that something was about to happen. And surely after just a few more minutes, we got more that I had ever thought...
The 9:4something train roared into Tennoji station, spilling over with devils, pirates, Doraemon, Pikachu's, bumble bees, life-sized pack of cigarettes and Japanese polititians. Faces were smashed into the windows, pony kegs strapped to bellies were being passed around, hoots and hollers drowned out the sound of the trains brakes as it slowed into the station and the doors opened. Immediately people/gaijin exploded out of the cars and onto the platform. Immediately we pushed our way in and began dancing. Due to a 15 minute layover in Tennoji we were asked to exit as soon as we entered and this first attempt at train partying did not last long. But the platform at this point was where it was at.
Some ran to the bathrooms, others posted on the stairs in hopes of getting a better view of the party or of finding fellow Halloween goers that they had understandably lost in the train. Everyone else mingled on the platform astounded that the rumors were true and happy to find others that share the same love for Halloween. And to be exact, there were many Japanese among the crowd, not only English-teaching foreigners.
Finally it was time to board the train, so we ran in and managed to get seats, though we were sat upon as well. A Jimmie Hendrix look-a-like played some tunes while monkeys swung from the handrails and at every stop my friend Belinda and I danced our way out the doors and into the next car, for another Halloween scene.
This constant rushing in and out, just to be smashed into another car (the first time I have actually seen the train guards whose duty it is to push people into a car so that the door will close) continued for the second half of the Osaka loop and culminated back at the beginning, in Shin-Osaka station. And half, I can assure you, was plenty sufficient. Just enough to get the experience, and not enough to be frustrated with all the pushing. Wooha, the Halloween Loop Line Train Party does exist, I am now living proof.
I did not see any skirmishes or arguments, fists thrown or costumes mocked. It was a peaceful, albeit rowdy, good time. Though apparently and no doubt, an inconvenience for some. Here is what one Daily Newspaper had to say about the event:
"Train hijack-O-lantern as costumed carousers occupy Osaka line
OSAKA -- About 450 costumed partygoers "occupied" as many as three carriages on a JR Kanjo Line train late Saturday night, preventing others from riding for about two hours, West Japan Railway Co. officials said.
Nobody was injured in the incident, which was held to mark Halloween on Monday.
One of the passengers on the train said the costumed passengers would alight at each station and dance around on the platform before getting on the train again. The Halloween "hijacking" of Osaka Loop Line trains has continued for about the past five years.
JR West responded to the incident by increasing the number of staff on duty on Saturday night and calling for assistance from the Osaka Prefectural Police Railway Police Brigade. (Mainichi)"
The rest of the night is not really worth mentioning and was not really worth the money spent either. Let's just put it this way: I've done the whole spring Break thing once, I don't need to do it again.
**All photos courtesy of Corri Gallicano, party photog. extraordinaire**
